The pump quit and water is rising right now
A failed sump pump is an urgent call, and our dispatch line runs 24/7 for exactly this. A sump pump is a pump in a pit at the lowest point of your floor that moves groundwater out and away from the house, and when it stops, the pit fills and then the floor does.
Callers describe a pit near the brim, a pump that hums without moving water, or a basement that was dry an hour ago. Start the steps below while you wait.
What to do before the plumber arrives
- Stay out of standing water
If water is near outlets, a panel or an appliance, keep out and have an electrician or the power utility cut power safely.
- Check the plug and breaker
A tripped GFCI outlet or breaker is the simplest cause. Reset once. If it trips again, leave it off.
- Lift the float gently
With the pump unplugged, see whether the float moves freely. A stuck float means the pump never gets told to run.
- Bail or siphon if you can
A wet-dry vacuum or buckets to a floor drain, utility sink or outdoors buys time. Do not pour water into the pit.
- Move belongings up
Lift boxes, rugs and electronics off the floor, then call so we can plan same-day or after-hours service.
Why sump pumps stop working
| Cause | What you see | Typical fix |
|---|---|---|
| No power | Silent pump, dry outlet or tripped breaker | Reset or repair circuit, add backup power. |
| Stuck float | Water rises, pump never starts | Free the float or replace the switch. |
| Clogged intake | Motor runs, little water leaves the pit | Clean the screen and clear debris. |
| Failed check valve | Pump cycles, water falls back in | Replace the valve in the discharge line. |
| Burned-out motor | Hum or nothing, hot housing | Replace the pump. |
| Blocked discharge | Water backs up from the outside end | Clear or reroute the line. |
Most pumps fail because they get used hard in a few wet weeks, then sit idle for months. The first big storm of the season is often when a worn float or tired motor finally gives out.
Water still rising in the pit?
Describe what the pump is doing and our dispatcher will line up same-day or after-hours help.
Testing the pit before the wet season
Test a pump twice a year, and again before spring thaw. Pour a few gallons of water slowly into the pit. The float should rise, the pump should start, and the pit should drain within seconds.
Watch the outside end of the discharge pipe while it runs. If water spills right beside the foundation or the pipe is frozen shut, the water can loop back to the pit. A pump that runs constantly with no rain may point to a leaking supply pipe, which leak detection can sort out.
Repair or replace: how to decide
A float switch, check valve or clogged screen is a quick repair. A worn motor, a cracked housing or a pump that has run through many seasons usually costs more to chase than to replace.
Replacement also gives a chance to fix what caused the failure: a pit that is too shallow, a pump that is undersized for the water it handles, or a discharge that dumps too close to the house. Planned installs for a new pit or an upgrade are part of our plumbing installation work.
Battery backup and where the water goes
Storms that overload a pump also tend to knock out power. A battery backup pump runs from a sealed battery and a second float, so the pit still empties during an outage. It does not last forever, and it needs a charged battery and a test.
The discharge line matters just as much. It should carry water well away from the foundation and should not tie into the sewer. Ask the Brigham City building office at (435) 734-6604 about local rules, since permit rules vary.
Sewage ejector pumps and basement bathrooms
A sewage ejector is a different machine. It lifts waste from a basement bath or laundry up to the main drain, so a failure means sewer smell, gurgling or wastewater coming up in a floor drain. Do not use the fixtures downstairs until it is fixed.
If wastewater is backing up and the pump is not the cause, a clogged line may be the culprit. See drain cleaning for that side.
When it is not a pump problem
- Standing water near electrical equipment: power utility or an electrician comes first.
- Cracks letting groundwater through a wall: a foundation or waterproofing contractor, see basement waterproofing.
- City-main sewer backups: call Public Works at (435) 734-6615, or the after-hours water emergency line at (435) 723-6868.
- Wet floors from a burst supply line: shut off the main and ask for plumbing help.
What drives the price of sump pump service
Repair versus new pump
A float or valve is a smaller job than a pump swap.
Pit condition
A cracked, silted or undersized pit may need work too.
Backup system
Battery backup adds parts and setup time.
Discharge route
Longer or buried lines take more labor.
Time of call
After-hours visits can differ from daytime service.
Homeowners policies often cover sudden accidental water damage, but may exclude water from a pump that failed from wear or from groundwater seepage. Check your policy. Want your real number? Call (855) 575-2890 for a clear price before work starts.
March 2018 and what thawing snow means for your pit
On the morning of March 23, 2018, Box Elder Creek overflowed with debris and snowmelt and rain, and about 10 homes took on water, basements included. Thousands of sandbags went down around the city. For a pump owner, that points to spring as the real test, so check your pit and backup before the thaw.
If you live in Perry, about 4 miles from the shop, we serve you the same way. Keep the number handy before storm season.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. Dispatch is open 24/7, and we offer same-day appointments when available. Call as soon as you see the pit rising.
Common causes are a clogged intake screen, a failed check valve or a seized impeller. Unplug the pump before touching it.
If outages follow storms where you live, it is worth considering. The battery needs charging checks and a test every few months.
Away from the foundation, not into the sewer, and clear of freezing spots. Permit rules vary, so ask the Brigham City building office at (435) 734-6604.
No. Wall cracks, grading, a leaking pipe or a sewer backup can look the same. We help find out which, and tell you honestly if it is a different trade.
There is no fixed number. Replace it when the motor wears, repairs pile up, or the pit has outgrown the pump.
Not by itself. Pump size depends on the water your pit actually receives. We can check yours and tell you if it keeps up.
Sources and standards
- Plumbing codes in the UPC and IPC families set the rules for fixtures, venting and drains. Ask the Brigham City building office at (435) 734-6604 which edition and permit rules apply to your job.
- The Utah Division of Professional Licensing offers a public Verify a License tool for checking any plumber's license class.
- Blue Stakes of Utah asks you to call 811 at least 3 business days before any digging so buried lines get marked.
Written by Brigham City Pro Plumbing. Last updated October 29, 2026.